Posts Index
- Starting an engine
Time to try to start the engine. The remains of dinosaurs were injured in the making of this post.
- One, two, skip a few…
Tonight we try to start the engine. This is what went into getting there.
- Various small jobs…
Fuel tank hole covered. Windscreen sourced and attached. Engine mount brackets welded in place. Prop-shaft manufactured. Alternator bracket fabricated.
- Shortening the handbrake
Sequence of pictures that might be useful for someone looking to shorten their handbrake handle (if it gets in the way of the gear lever).
- We’re getting close, methinks
Radiator mounts modified for rubber mounts, started routing cooling plumbing, removed idler solenoid, rewired engine to exit at rear, mounted scuttle, WHEELS
- Steering, cooling, fuel-pump and bodywork
Steering column mounted and cut (to allow extension), new steering rack mounts have arrived, bell-housing reinforced and radiator mounted (with fan). Fuel pump and low-pressure filter installed.
- Drive-train in place
Poly-bushes fitted in new wishbones. Engine brackets welded. Gearbox and engine mount plates drilled. Sump chopped to fit starter motor. More of the bellhousing removed. Diff fitted, bracket trimmed. Pulley for alternator sourced, cheaply.
- Back in business
The chassis comes back, and work proceeds on fabricating the engine-mount brackets. Bits removed from bell-housing. Oil filter assembly removed.
- The travelling chassis
Chassis gone for fixing, clutch and hydraulics, engine mount plates cut out.
- A long, long time ago
Search for propshaft yoke, unsuccessful and then unnecessary. Measure amount of gearbox input shaft to remove, and then remove it.
- We got an engine
We got our engine, a 1600 Ford Rocam.
- A long read (and much done)
Purchasing of alternator, starter motor, radiator, remote oil filter. Installation of suspension components, including modifications for some chassis error. Brake caliper spacing measured. Fuel tank installed. DIY riv-nut tool.
- Small steps forward
Suspension construction in progress, small chassis error. Gearbox in for maintenance and machining. Fuel pump and coolant expansion bottle acquired. Crunched car.
- Last of the panels (for now)
Floor fitted, and side panels finished (but not fitted). Fuel line moved, due to gearbox conflict. Front uprights done. Steering rack arrives. Diff plug cleaned, photos of filings.
- P-clips, pop-rivets and the envy of Michelangelo
Brake lines, fuel lines and wiring loom affixed to the chassis (through transmission tunnel). Holes for floor and transmission side panel drilled. Main side-panels finished.
- Almost finished panels
Still continuing the side panels, annealing the aluminium to make it easier to bend. Also bent the brake lines to the chassis. Picture of fuel tank.
- A step closer to the ENGINE
The gearbox arrives, and cleaning starts. Also got the seats and fuel tank. Photo of a Locost on the track.
- Paneling as winter approaches
Brake line sizing, further progress with panels, start of wiring loom, cleaning of seat runners.
- Panels, Lobro’s and MORE stuff
Got aluminium sheets, front calipers. Packed CV (Lobro) joints, started cutting panels.
- We got more stuff!
Sizing of brake lines, search for calipers. Aluminium sheets for panels purchased, more donor parts (hardbrake and cables, seat runners, steering column).
- More bolts, rivets and bearings
More bolts, front wheel bearing kits. Analysed countersunk rivet angle.
- It’s looking a bit like a car
Preliminary construction of suspension, diff fitting. Chassis modification to fit pedal box. Purchased initial bolt set.
- Back to work
Fitted poly-bushes, cleaned front uprights in electrolysis cell. Got pedal box, master cylinders, shocks.
- The Chassis Arrives
Chassis arrives. Front uprights and rear hubs in for machining. Rear wheel-bearings being pressed in.
- Electrolysis for rust removal
Test of electrolysis method for rust removal.
- Some good news, some bad
Confirmation that the damaged front hub is still usable, and final bits have been cleaned. Metal shavings found on the magnetic diff filler cap.
- Progress, and a first mistake
Front upright damaged while removing bearing. Diff cleaned.
- Diffs are DIRTY
Front uprights disassembled. CV (Lobro) joints disassembled, started cleaning.
- Reverse-thread breeds insecurity
Rear hub nuts removed (reverse thread MUCH harder). Reverse-thread front-upright hub nut also removed (easily).
- Diffs are HEAVY
Diff purchased and brought home. Rear brake-drums removed. Searching for a 41mm socket.
- Searching for those magic numbers
Finding a 4.11 diff
- First picture
Photo of bodywork (and some fishing)
- It begins
I know, let’s build a racing car…
Tools
This is a list of the tools that I have needed thus far. Note, I have not included tools which I may have tried to use, but weren’t successful with:
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| Lubricating oil | 1.1kg hammer | Dodgy old rope |
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| Vernier Caliper | Hand cleaner (with mystery grit – haven’t found any yet). There are cheaper hand cleaners! | 12mm drill bit |
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| Dodgy bearing puller | 3/4″ sliding T-bar (power bar) | 41mm socket (for hub nut, front and rear) |
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| T45 Torx socket | 1/2″, short power bar. The bends were there when I got it | Dremel-esque tool |
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| Paraffin (degreaser, dispose responsibly) | Electric drill | Wire brushes |
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| Power supply for electrolysis (battery charger) | Electrolysis tank with anode | Angle grinder |
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| Jigsaw | Blades for jigsaw – aluminium | Blades for jigsaw – steel |
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