Rear Uprights

In the first option, I must first state that I don’t really have a clue. Our build uses the independent rear suspension/axle, so comments and corrections are welcome. But the live axle (as used in the first “Book”) seems to contain all the necessary bits to connect directly to the wheels. You can modify it to use disk brakes, and various adaptors are available from Locost SA, or designs on the web. I’ve also been told that the live axle option is lighter than the IRS. As far as servicing a live axle, you will have to look elsewhere for advice (anybody who wants to send me details, feel free – I will post and give credit).

The other easy option is the one we took. We bought the “Starter Kit” from Locost SA. This has a custom designed rear upright, which does away with the Ford parts. Apparently the Ford wheel bearings are pretty awful, and the Locost design uses Golf wheel bearings. One of the benefits is that these bearings are pre-packed and sealed, whereas the Ford ones require messy packing with grease, and fitting the oil seal manually. No thanks.

Here is a picture of the rear upright:

This used to be the way it was done (hope I haven’t insulted anyone). The rear upright is built (by you, the builder) to allow the donor’s rear hub carrier to be bolted directly on. Then Ford wheel bearings would be used when replacing the bearings. An example of this is on Andre’s build diary (for his blue car):

I think if you are considering this option, then you don’t really have much to learn from this website! Let me know how it goes, I’ll happily post links to good results (or failure warnings…)

There are other options, and other axles (DeDion or something) but if you are exploring these, then you don’t need my help.

Now you know everything I know about the rear upright.